Fenty Beauty: 10 Years of Revolutionary Shade Inclusivity

Part A: Clara Voss — Inclusivity as a Disruptive Business Model

A Disruption Strategy Built on Shade Inclusivity

Fenty Beauty marked a turning point in 2017 by launching with 40 foundation shades, immediately disrupting an industry where brands typically offered only 12 to 20 shades, often concentrated on phototypes I to III. This initiative addressed a growing consumer demand, particularly from individuals with medium to deep skin tones who were frequently excluded from traditional ranges. This approach significantly reduced the number of brands failing to offer suitable shades for darker skin tones within two years (Fenty Beauty - Diversity Business Model | Rotman School).

The impact of this strategy extends far beyond numbers. By expanding its range, Fenty Beauty disrupted competitors, forcing them to re-evaluate their own offerings. Brands like Estée Lauder, L’Oréal, and Maybelline quickly followed suit, increasing the number of shades in their lines. For instance, L’Oréal Paris launched its True Match range with 40 shades in 2018, while Estée Lauder expanded its Double Wear line to 30 shades in 2019. This ripple effect demonstrates how one brand can redefine industry standards by catering to an underserved demand. According to a study by the Rotman School, this disruption allowed Fenty Beauty to capture a significant share of the U.S. foundation market as early as 2018 (Fenty Beauty - Diversity Business Model | Rotman School).

However, this strategy was not without risks. By offering such a broad range, Fenty Beauty had to invest heavily in logistics and production, incurring significantly higher storage and distribution costs than traditional brands. For example, managing inventory for 40 shades requires specialized warehouses and precise tracking systems to avoid stockouts or overstocking. This logistical complexity was a major challenge, especially in the initial months post-launch when demand exceeded expectations. Nevertheless, this approach also allowed Fenty Beauty to create a sense of scarcity around certain shades, fueling consumer enthusiasm.

Financial Growth and Business Model

Fenty Beauty’s commercial success was evident from its early months. In less than a month, the brand generated sales five times higher than the previous launch record for a celebrity brand, surpassing benchmarks set by icons like Kylie Jenner and Selena Gomez (Fenty Beauty: A Case Study in Diversity Driving Industry Disruption). According to available data, by the end of 2018, Fenty Beauty had amassed significant revenue, contributing to a sales increase in LVMH’s cosmetics division that year. By 2023, the brand remained the world’s most profitable celebrity beauty franchise, with annual revenues exceeding $600 million (Celebrity Beauty Revenues Soar 58% In 2023, With Rihanna Reigning Again).

This success is partly attributable to a unique business model where Rihanna retains a substantial share of the profits. Unlike other celebrities who license their names to industrial groups, Rihanna opted for a partnership with LVMH, allowing her to maintain control over the brand while leveraging the luxury giant’s expertise and resources. According to an analysis by the Rotman School, this model proved that inclusivity could be a sustainable economic driver (Fenty Beauty - Diversity Business Model | Rotman School). In 2022, Fenty Beauty launched its own skincare line, Fenty Skin, further strengthening its financial autonomy and capacity for innovation without relying on trends dictated by major corporations.

Another key aspect of this model is its pricing strategy. Fenty Beauty positions its products in the premium segment, with prices ranging between $30 and $45 for foundations. This pricing policy is justified by the perceived quality of the formulas and the range’s inclusivity, but it also limits accessibility for certain consumers. For example, user feedback suggests that some consumers with medium to deep skin tones avoid premium brands due to their high cost. Fenty Beauty has attempted to address this by offering mini-sizes (like $10 sample sets) and occasional collaborations, but accessibility remains an ongoing challenge.

Innovation and Incubation: Beyond Makeup

Fenty Beauty didn’t just dominate the foundation market. The brand diversified its portfolio with innovative products like the Eaze Drop Blur + Smooth Tint Stick, a blurring and smoothing concealer stick, and the Hydra Vizor Hues Tinted Moisturizer SPF, which includes sun protection. These launches align with a strategy of rapid incubation, where products are developed in response to consumer feedback and cultural trends. For instance, the Soft’lit Naturally Luminous Longwear Foundation (available in 420 shades) specifically targets medium to deep skin tones, a segment often overlooked by traditional brands (Complexion Cheat Sheet | Base Essentials | Fenty Beauty).

However, this innovation strategy comes at a cost. Fenty Beauty’s profit margins remain high, with prices positioned in the premium segment (between $30 and $45 for foundations). This pricing policy is justified by the perceived quality of the formulas and the range’s inclusivity, but it also limits accessibility for certain consumers. For example, user feedback indicates that some consumers avoid premium brands due to their high cost. Fenty Beauty has attempted to address this by offering mini-sizes (like $10 sample sets) and occasional collaborations, but accessibility remains an ongoing challenge.

Another example of innovation is the Glow Forward Illuminating Concealer, launched in 2021. This concealer, available in 50 shades, stands out with its formula rich in hydrating ingredients (such as hyaluronic acid and squalane), thus meeting the needs of dry or mature skin. User reviews highlight its light yet effective coverage, ideal for superficial imperfections. However, some consumers have noted that the product dries quickly, a side effect linked to its oil-free formula. This example illustrates a recurring challenge for Fenty Beauty: finding a balance between inclusivity, innovation, and skin tolerance.

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Part B: June Kessler — Product Analysis Based on Reviews and Literature

Photo: ibnu ihza / Unsplash

Shade Range: Real Coverage for Medium to Deep Skin Tones?

Fenty Beauty offers 25 shades for its Pro Filt’r Soft Matte Longwear Foundation, with a distribution that includes shades suitable for medium to deep skin tones (phototypes IV to VI). According to the brand’s Complexion Cheat Sheet, these shades cover a wide range of undertones (warm, cool, neutral), an essential criterion for diverse skin types (Complexion Cheat Sheet | Base Essentials | Fenty Beauty).

Foundations for medium to deep skin tones ideally need to cover a range of 40 to 50 shades to meet the needs of the majority of consumers with these phototypes. Fenty Beauty, with its 25 shades, covers a portion of this market, but gaps remain, particularly for very deep skin tones or specific undertones (Beyond Light, Medium, and Dark: Diversity and Inclusivity in the Makeup and Beauty Industries).

Another critical point is in-store availability. Although Fenty Beauty is an online-first brand, it has progressively expanded its physical distribution through partnerships with retailers like Sephora and Ulta Beauty. However, the in-store selection remains uneven across regions. For example, in rural areas or less diverse neighborhoods, shades suitable for darker skin tones are often absent from shelves, limiting accessibility. This disparity was highlighted by an investigation in Allure in 2023, which found that some consumers with medium to deep skin tones had to order online to find their ideal shade, despite Fenty Beauty’s in-store presence.

Formulas and Ingredients: What Users Report

The Pro Filt’r Soft Matte Longwear Foundation is described as an oil-free formula with light to medium coverage and ingredients like hyaluronic acid for hydration and the QuickBlur Complex for a blurring effect. According to public user reviews (analyzed via platforms like Influenster and MakeupAlley), this product is praised for its long-lasting wear (up to 16 hours) and matte finish, ideal for combination to oily skin.

However, several criticisms are frequently raised:

• Skin dryness: The oil-free formula can be too drying for dry or sensitive skin, especially in winter or arid climates.
• Lack of luminosity: The matte finish, while desired by some, is perceived as too matte by others, particularly for deeper skin tones seeking a more radiant effect.
• Ashy undertones: Some users have noted that certain shades (especially cool undertones) can turn ashy after a few hours, a problem linked to pigment formulation.

The Eaze Drop Blur + Smooth Tint Stick, on the other hand, is designed for an instant blurring effect. Its formula incorporates ingredients like glycerin for hydration and Squalane to soften the skin. Reviews indicate good coverage of imperfections and an easy-to-blend texture, but some consumers have reported that the product doesn’t last all day, especially on oily skin.

Another frequently mentioned product is the Gloss Bomb Universal Lip Luminizer, a shimmering lip balm available in 14 shades, including several suitable for medium to deep skin tones. This product has been lauded for its ultra-hydrating formula (rich in shea butter and castor oil) and long-lasting wear. However, some users have noted that the deeper shades (like Berry Bossy or Cupid) tend to dry out the lips after a few hours, a side effect linked to their high pigmentation.

Inclusivity Beyond Shades: A Holistic Approach?

Fenty Beauty has extended its inclusive commitment to other aspects, such as the representation of models in its campaigns and product accessibility for people with disabilities. For example, the brand has collaborated with disabled influencers (like Mama Cax, an advocate for disability rights) to promote its products, demonstrating a commitment to diversity beyond skin tones.

However, analysis indicates that despite these efforts, some products remain ill-suited for very deep skin tones or specific needs (such as hyperpigmentation-prone skin). For instance, concealers and foundations for darker skin tones still struggle to offer optimal coverage for deep imperfections. A 2022 MakeupAlley survey revealed that some users with darker skin tones found Fenty Beauty concealers insufficient to mask scars or hyperpigmentation.

Another concrete example is foundations for mature skin. Although Fenty Beauty offers suitable shades, the formulas are not always optimized for older skin, which requires anti-aging ingredients or better hydration. For example, the Pro Filt’r is often criticized for its lack of anti-aging ingredients, which are essential for mature skin. This gap is partly explained by the brand’s strategy, which primarily targets young adults, but it limits its appeal to a segment of its audience.

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Part C: Joint Verdict — Operational Engagement Index & Performance Index

Criterion	Operational Engagement Index (Clara Voss)	Performance Index (June Kessler)
Shade Inclusivity	⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ (5/5) – 25-shade range covering phototypes IV to VI, with balanced undertone distribution.	⭐⭐⭐⭐ (4/5) – Broad coverage, but some shades difficult to find in physical stores and gaps for very deep skin tones.
Product Innovation	⭐⭐⭐⭐ (4/5) – Rapid launches and responses to cultural trends, but high R&D costs and sometimes ill-suited formulas.	⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ (5/5) – Innovative formulas, but some products lack coverage for very deep skin tones or deep imperfections.
Business Model	⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ (5/5) – Exceptional financial growth, advantageous licensing model for Rihanna.	⭐⭐⭐ (3/5) – Premium pricing limits accessibility for some consumers.
Communication & Virality	⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ (5/5) – Effective cultural time strategy, collaborations, and high-profile events.	⭐⭐⭐⭐ (4/5) – Inclusive campaigns, but some products struggle to meet the specific needs of medium to deep skin tones.
Commitment Sustainability	⭐⭐⭐⭐ (4/5) – Commitment maintained over 10 years, but risk of diluting authenticity with brand expansion.	⭐⭐⭐ (3/5) – Some products are not optimized for diverse skin types, despite stated commitment.

Overall Verdict: Fenty Beauty has undeniably changed the game in shade inclusivity, both in terms of shades and economic strategy. However, despite its advancements, the brand still struggles to offer fully adapted solutions for the specific needs of medium to deep skin tones, particularly concerning coverage for imperfections and hydration. Its business model, while profitable, remains inaccessible to some consumers. Overall Score: 8.5/10.

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Expert’s Take

Fenty Beauty has undeniably set a new standard for inclusivity, but its legacy still needs consolidation. The challenge for the coming years will be to maintain this diversity while improving the suitability of products for the real needs of medium to deep skin tones, especially regarding hyperpigmentation treatment and hydration. The brand must also strive to reduce disparities between online and in-store offerings to ensure equitable accessibility for all shades.

Another major challenge will be to diversify its formulas to cater to mature, sensitive, or problem-prone skin types. Finally, Fenty Beauty will need to anticipate the expectations of new generations, such as Gen Z and Alpha, who seek clean, vegan, and sustainable products. Currently, the brand lags in these areas, with some products not certified vegan and a sustainability policy that remains unclear.

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The 5 Key Takeaways

1. Revolutionary Launch: 40 shades in 2017, forcing the industry to rethink its standards and reducing the number of brands excluding darker skin tones (Fenty Beauty - Diversity Business Model | Rotman School).
2. Financial Growth: Annual revenues exceeding $600 million in 2023, thanks to an advantageous licensing model for Rihanna (Celebrity Beauty Revenues Soar 58% In 2023, With Rihanna Reigning Again).
3. Shade Range: 25 shades for the Pro Filt’r, covering phototypes IV to VI, but gaps remain for very deep skin tones and certain undertones (Complexion Cheat Sheet | Base Essentials | Fenty Beauty).
4. User Feedback: Products praised for wear and inclusivity, but criticized for dryness and insufficient coverage for deep imperfections.
5. Future Challenges: Maintaining inclusivity while improving formula suitability for medium to deep skin tones and optimizing distribution for equitable accessibility.

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This article is for informational purposes only and does not replace professional medical advice. Consult a dermatologist before making any changes to your routine.